Juju dhau

Step 1: Pour 2 litres full-fat milk into a wide, heavy pan and bring to the boil over a medium-high heat, stirring the base with a flat spoon so it doesn't catch.

Step 2: Keep it at a lively simmer for 20–25 minutes, stirring every minute or two and scraping in the skin that forms at the sides, until it has reduced by about a third (to roughly 1.3 litres), looks creamy ivory and smells slightly of caramel.

Step 3: Stir in 3 ½ oz sugar and ¼ tsp ground green cardamom until dissolved. Take off the heat and let it cool to about 109°F: you should be able to keep a clean finger in it for 10 seconds, warm but not hot. Too hot and it will kill the starter; too cool and it won't set.

Step 4: Whisk 3 tbsp plain full-fat yogurt with a ladleful of the warm milk until smooth, then stir it back into the pan.

Step 5: Pour into 6 unglazed clay pots or ceramic bowls. Cover with a cloth, set them in a warm, draught-free place (inside a switched-off oven with the light on works) and wrap in a blanket. Leave undisturbed for 8–10 hours, until set firm; a spoon should leave a clean cut.

Step 6: Chill for at least 3 hours. Pour off any whey from ceramic bowls. Serve cold, on its own, in the pots. It keeps for 4 days in the fridge.