Kabab koobideh

Step 1: Grate 2 onions on the fine side of a grater into a clean cloth and squeeze hard until no more juice comes out. Use only the dry pulp.

Step 2: In a large bowl combine 1 ¾ lb lamb mince (about 20% fat), the onion pulp, 1 ½ tsp salt, 1 tsp black pepper, ½ tsp ground turmeric and ¼ tsp bicarbonate of soda. Knead with your hand for 5–8 minutes, slapping it against the bowl, until it turns pale, sticky and stringy.

Step 3: Cover and chill the mince in the fridge for at least 1 hour (or overnight). Cold mince holds on the skewer much better. Wash your hands and the bowl's surroundings after touching raw meat.

Step 4: Divide into 8 portions. With wet hands squeeze each portion along a wide flat metal skewer into a 20 cm sausage about 2 cm thick, pressing firmly at both ends. Pinch it with your fingers every few centimetres to make the classic ridges.

Step 5: Heat a barbecue until the coals are glowing white, or a grill to high. Grill 4 tomatoes on separate skewers. Lay the kebabs on, holding them above the bars if you can, and turn them after 30 seconds so they set before they can droop.

Step 6: Grill for 8–10 minutes in total, turning every minute or so and brushing with 2 tbsp vegetable oil mixed with 2 tbsp saffron water, until browned all over.

Step 7: Minced meat must be cooked through: check that it reaches 160°F (160 °F) in the centre, with no pink left. A common mistake is leaving the mince too wet or too warm, so the kebabs fall into the fire.

Step 8: Slide the kebabs off with a piece of lavash or a fork onto warm plates, rest for 2 minutes, then serve with 4 portions cooked chelow rice or lavash, the tomatoes, 1 handful fresh mint, basil and radishes and a sprinkle of 1 tsp sumac.