Käsespätzle

Step 1: Start the onions. Melt 1 ⅜ oz butter in a frying pan over a medium-low heat, add 3 onions and 1 pinch salt and cook for 20–25 minutes, stirring now and then, until deep golden brown and sweet. Turn the heat up for the last 2 minutes so the edges crisp.

Step 2: Meanwhile, beat 14 oz plain flour, 4 eggs, 1 tsp salt and 1 pinch ground nutmeg with a wooden spoon, adding ¾ cup sparkling water or tap water a little at a time, until you have a thick, sticky batter. Beat hard for 3–4 minutes until it forms bubbles and slowly drips from the spoon in thick ribbons. Rest it for 10 minutes.

Step 3: Heat the oven to 325°F (275°F fan) and warm a baking dish. Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil.

Step 4: Press the batter into the boiling water in batches through a spätzle press or a colander with large holes, or scrape thin strips off a wet board with a knife the Swabian way. The spätzle are done when they float to the top, after 1–2 minutes. A common mistake is crowding the pot: the water stops boiling and the spätzle stick together.

Step 5: Lift each batch out with a slotted spoon, shake off the water and put it straight into the warm dish. Scatter over a handful of 9 oz Bergkäse, Emmental or Gruyère-style cheese (vegetarian rennet) and some ½ tsp black pepper, and keep the dish in the oven while you cook the next batch. Finish with a layer of cheese.

Step 6: When all the layers are done, give the dish 5 minutes in the oven until the top cheese has melted. Pile the onions on top, scatter with 2 tbsp chives and serve straight away.