Kala bhuna

Step 1: Put 2 ⅝ lb beef with some fat and bone (brisket, shin or chuck) in a heavy pot with 3 onions, 1 ½ tbsp ginger paste, 1 ½ tbsp garlic paste, 1 tsp ground turmeric, 2 tsp red chilli powder, 1 tbsp ground coriander, 2 tsp ground cumin and 2 tsp salt and mix well; cook over a medium heat for 10 minutes until the meat changes colour.

Step 2: Add 1 ¾ cups hot water, cover and simmer over a low heat for 60–75 minutes until the beef is tender and the liquid is almost gone. (A pressure cooker takes about 20 minutes.)

Step 3: Heat ¾ cup mustard oil in a large, heavy karai or wide pan over a high heat until it just smokes, then lower to medium.

Step 4: Add 3 bay leaves, 1 cinnamon stick, 5 green cardamom pods, 6 cloves, 1 tsp black peppercorns and 4 dried red chillies and stir for 30 seconds until fragrant.

Step 5: Add 2 onions and fry for 10–12 minutes until dark brown.

Step 6: Add the beef and all its remaining juices and fry over a medium-low heat for 40–50 minutes, stirring and scraping every few minutes, until the meat is very dark brown, dry, and coated in a sticky, almost black masala. Add a splash of water if it starts to catch.

Step 7: Sprinkle with 2 tsp ground mixture of nutmeg, mace, cumin and black pepper, stir for 2–3 minutes and take off the heat.

Step 8: Rest for 10 minutes and serve with plain rice, khichuri or chitoi ruti.