Kamatama udon

Step 1: Stir 2 tbsp soy sauce and 1 tsp mirin together. Fill two deep bowls with hot water to warm them.

Step 2: Bring a large pan of water to a rolling boil. Add 2 frozen Sanuki-style udon noodles from frozen and cook for 1 minute less than the packet says, usually 1–2 minutes, loosening with chopsticks.

Step 3: While the noodles cook, empty the bowls, dry them and crack one of 2 eggs into each. Beat lightly with chopsticks.

Step 4: Lift the noodles out with tongs, give them one quick shake and drop them straight onto the eggs. Toss immediately and quickly for 30 seconds, until the egg turns creamy and clings to every noodle.

Step 5: Common mistake: rinsing or draining the udon in a colander first. They cool down within seconds and the egg stays raw and runny. Straight from pot to bowl is the trick.

Step 6: Drizzle over the soy mixture, top with 2 spring onions and ⅛ oz fresh ginger, and add ⅓ oz butter and 1 pinch black pepper if you like. Toss once more and eat at once.