Kanchipuram idli

Step 1: Soak 7 oz idli rice (parboiled) and 1 ¾ oz raw rice together, and 3 ½ oz whole skinned urad dal with ½ tsp fenugreek seeds separately, in plenty of water for 4 hours.

Step 2: Grind the urad and fenugreek with a little of 1 cup water to a light, fluffy, smooth batter. Grind the rice with the rest of the water to a coarse paste like fine semolina.

Step 3: Mix both batters with 1 ¼ tsp salt in a large bowl, leaving room to double. Cover loosely and ferment 8–10 hours at 26–86°F (longer, up to 14 hours, in a cool kitchen; in winter put it in a switched-off oven with the light on).

Step 4: Check the batter: it should have risen by about half, look bubbly and smell pleasantly sour, like yogurt. If it smells sharp or alcoholic it has gone too far; if flat and sweet, give it a few more hours.

Step 5: Heat 3 tbsp ghee in a small pan. Add 1 tsp cumin seeds and 1 ½ tsp black peppercorns and let them crackle, then 10 cashews until golden, then 12 curry leaves, ½ tsp dry ginger powder (sukku) and ¼ tsp gluten-free asafoetida (hing). Pour into the batter and fold gently without knocking out the air.

Step 6: Line greased steel cups or small bowls with 8 banana leaf pieces if using, or grease with 1 tsp oil, and fill two-thirds full.

Step 7: Steam over boiling water, covered, for 18–20 minutes, until a skewer comes out clean and the tops spring back.

Step 8: Rest 5 minutes, unmould and cut into thick slices. Serve hot with coconut chutney and sambar.