Ker sangri

Step 1: Pick over 2 ⅛ oz dried sangri beans and 1 oz dried ker berries, discarding any stones or stems. Rinse well, then soak them together in half of 6 ¼ cups water overnight (8–10 hours). They will roughly double in size and the sangri turn from brittle to bendy.

Step 2: Drain, rinse again and put in a pan with the rest of the soak water and ½ tsp salt. Boil over a medium heat for 15 minutes, until the sangri are tender but still a little chewy and the ker can be squashed between your fingers. Drain and squeeze gently to remove excess water.

Step 3: Heat 4 tbsp mustard oil in a heavy kadai over a high heat until it just begins to smoke, then take it off the heat for a minute. Heating mustard oil this way drives off its raw, eye-watering sharpness.

Step 4: Return to a medium heat, add 1 tsp cumin seeds and let it crackle, then ¼ tsp asafoetida (hing) and 4 dried red chillies for a few seconds, until the chillies darken but don't blacken.

Step 5: Turn the heat to low, add 1 ½ tsp red chilli powder, 2 tsp ground coriander and ½ tsp ground turmeric with 4 tbsp water. Stir for 1 minute; the water stops the ground spices scorching and makes a glossy paste in the oil.

Step 6: Add the sangri and ker, ¾ tsp salt and 1 tbsp raisins if using. Fry over a low-medium heat for 8–10 minutes, stirring often, until the masala coats everything, the oil separates and the beans smell toasty.

Step 7: Sprinkle in 1 tsp dried mango powder (amchur), toss for 1 minute and take off the heat. Serve warm or at room temperature; it tastes even better the next day and keeps in the fridge for up to a week.