Kerala meen curry

Step 1: Heat 2 tbsp of 3 tbsp coconut oil in a clay pot or heavy pan over a medium heat. Add 1 tsp mustard seeds and, when they pop, ¼ tsp fenugreek seeds; fry for 10 seconds until the fenugreek turns golden, not brown (dark fenugreek is bitter).

Step 2: Add 10 shallots, 1 tbsp ginger, 8 cloves garlic, 2 green chillies and half of 2 sprigs curry leaves and fry for 6–8 minutes until the shallots are soft and golden.

Step 3: Turn the heat to low. Mix 3 tbsp Kashmiri chilli powder, 1 tsp hot chilli powder, 1 tsp ground coriander and ½ tsp ground turmeric with 4 tbsp of the 1 ¾ cups water to a paste, add it to the pan and fry for 3–4 minutes, stirring, until it darkens a shade and oil glistens on top.

Step 4: Pour in the rest of the water with 3 pieces kudampuli (Malabar tamarind) and its soaking water and 1 tsp salt. Bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes so the sourness comes out of the kudampuli. Taste: it should be sharply sour and quite salty.

Step 5: Slide in 1 ⅓ lb firm fish steaks (kingfish, seer, mackerel or sardines) in a single layer. Common mistake: stirring now. Instead, swirl the pot by its handles so the gravy covers the fish.

Step 6: Cover and simmer over a low heat for 10–12 minutes, swirling once or twice, until the fish is opaque all the way through and flakes when pressed with a knife.

Step 7: Drizzle over the remaining 3 tbsp coconut oil, add the rest of 2 sprigs curry leaves, cover and take off the heat. Leave it to stand for at least 1 hour before reheating gently, or cool, refrigerate and eat the next day (within 2 days).