Khao chae (jasmine-scented chilled rice)

Step 1: The night before or 4 hours ahead, rinse the 20 unsprayed jasmine flowers gently, float them in the 6 ¼ cups drinking water in a covered jug and chill in the fridge. Lift the flowers out before serving (or stir in the extract just before serving).

Step 2: Rinse the 10 ½ oz jasmine rice and cook it in 450 ml of water in a covered pan over a low heat for 12 minutes, until the water is absorbed and the grains are just tender. Rest 10 minutes.

Step 3: Tip the rice into a sieve and rinse under cold water, rubbing gently, until the water runs clear and the grains feel firm and separate. Drain well and chill.

Step 4: Put the 10 ½ oz pork loin in a pan of cold water, bring to the boil and simmer over a low heat for 25 minutes, until it is cooked right through with no pink and reads at least 160°F in the centre. Cool slightly.

Step 5: Pull the pork into very fine shreds with two forks, then pound the shreds lightly in a mortar so they fluff up.

Step 6: Stir 4 tbsp palm sugar and 1 tbsp fish sauce in a dry non-stick pan over a low heat until melted, add the pork and keep stirring for 20–25 minutes until the strands are dry, glossy, dark gold and crisp at the edges. Common mistake: using a high heat; the sugar burns before the pork dries.

Step 7: Fry 6 shallots, 4 garlic cloves, 1 lemongrass stalk and ⅔ oz fingerroot (krachai) or ginger in 2 tbsp of the ½ cup vegetable oil in a wok over a medium heat for 6–8 minutes until soft and golden.

Step 8: Add 2 tbsp shrimp paste, 1 ⅜ oz dried shredded fish or dried shrimp and 3 tbsp palm sugar and stir over a low heat for 10 minutes until the paste is thick, dark and smells toasty, not raw. Cool until you can handle it.

Step 9: Roll two-thirds of the paste into 12 balls the size of a large marble. Press the remaining third into the 6 large banana shallots shells.

Step 10: Whisk 2 ⅛ oz rice flour, 1 egg and 60 ml of water into a thin batter.

Step 11: Heat the rest of the 3 ¾ cups vegetable oil in a deep pan to 350°F (a cube of bread browns in 40 seconds).

Step 12: Dip the balls in the batter and fry in batches for 3–4 minutes, until deep golden, crisp and hot right through when one is broken open. Drain on kitchen paper.

Step 13: Dip the stuffed shallots in batter and fry for 5–6 minutes, turning, until golden and the shallot is soft when pierced. Drain.

Step 14: Spoon the chilled rice into bowls, add a few 1 ⅛ lb ice cubes cubes and pour in the cold jasmine water to just cover.

Step 15: Serve the shrimp-paste balls, stuffed shallots and sweet pork on a separate plate, with 1 cucumber and 1 green mango. Eat a bite of a side, then a spoon of cold rice. Keep leftover sides in the fridge for 2 days.