Khao yam (southern Thai rice salad)

Step 1: Put ¼ cup gluten-free light soy sauce or tamari, ½ cup water, 1 ⅜ oz palm sugar, 1 tbsp tamarind paste, 1 stalk lemongrass, 1 shallot and 2 makrut lime leaves in a small pan. Simmer over a low heat for 8–10 minutes until reduced by about a third and as thick as maple syrup. Strain and cool; it thickens more as it cools.

Step 2: If making blue rice, steep 10 dried blue pea flowers in 3 tbsp of boiling water for 5 minutes, strain, and toss the deep blue water through 16 oz cooked jasmine rice until evenly tinted.

Step 3: Toast 1 ⅜ oz desiccated coconut in a dry pan over a medium-low heat, stirring all the time, for 3–4 minutes until evenly golden and fragrant. It goes from golden to burnt in seconds, so tip it onto a plate as soon as it colours.

Step 4: Prepare 2 stalks lemongrass, 6 makrut lime leaves, 4 oz pomelo or pink grapefruit segments, 4 yardlong beans, 2 ⅞ oz bean sprouts, ½ cucumber, ½ green mango and 2 shallots and arrange them in little piles around a mound of rice on each plate. Add the coconut and a pinch of 1 tsp dried chilli flakes.

Step 5: Serve with the dressing in a jug and 1 lime on the side. Each person pours over about 2 tbsp of dressing, squeezes on lime and mixes everything together with a spoon just before eating.