Khatkhatem

Step 1: Cook 2 ⅝ oz toor dal (split pigeon peas) with ½ tsp ground turmeric and 1 ½ cups water in a pressure cooker for 3 whistles (about 12 minutes), or simmer for 30 minutes, until soft but still holding its shape. Don't mash it.

Step 2: Toast 5 dried Kashmiri or Byadgi red chillies, 1 tbsp coriander seeds and ½ tsp cumin seeds in a dry pan over a low heat for 2 minutes, until fragrant and the chillies puff slightly. Grind with 4 oz fresh coconut, ⅓ oz tamarind and 200 ml water to a fine, thick paste.

Step 3: Lightly crush 6 tirphal berries (or ½ tsp Sichuan pepper) with a rolling pin and soak in 3 tbsp warm water.

Step 4: Put 3 ½ oz elephant foot yam (suran), 1 sweet potato, 1 raw green banana (plantain) and 1 corn on the cob in a large pan with 2 cups water and 1 ½ tsp salt. Bring to a boil and simmer, covered, on a medium heat for 8 minutes.

Step 5: Add 2 drumsticks (moringa pods) and 5 ½ oz red pumpkin and cook for 6–7 more minutes. Add 5 ½ oz Goan or large cucumber for the last 3 minutes. Common mistake: putting everything in at once. Pumpkin and cucumber collapse long before yam and corn are cooked. Test with a knife: everything should be tender but whole.

Step 6: Stir in the dal, the coconut paste and ½ oz jaggery. Simmer gently for 6–8 minutes, stirring carefully from the bottom, until the stew is thick, coats the vegetables and turns a warm orange-red.

Step 7: Add the tirphal with its soaking water, simmer for 2 more minutes and take off the heat. Cover and rest 10 minutes so the tirphal flavour spreads through. Serve with hot rice.