Kosha mangsho

Step 1: Mix 2 ¼ lb goat or mutton, bone-in with 5 ½ oz plain yogurt, 1 ½ tbsp ginger paste, 1 ½ tbsp garlic paste, 1 tsp ground turmeric and 2 tsp salt. Cover and marinate in the fridge for at least 2 hours, or overnight.

Step 2: Take the meat out of the fridge 20 minutes before cooking. Heat 6 tbsp mustard oil in a heavy pot over a high heat until it just starts to smoke, then turn the heat to medium and let it cool for a minute; this takes away the raw, sharp edge of the oil.

Step 3: Fry 3 potatoes for 5–6 minutes, turning, until golden in patches. Lift them out and set aside.

Step 4: Add 1 tsp sugar and let it melt and turn amber, about 30 seconds, then add 2 bay leaves, 4 green cardamom pods, 4 cloves and 2 in cinnamon stick and stir until they puff and smell fragrant.

Step 5: Add 3 onions and fry over a medium heat, stirring often, for 15–18 minutes, until deep golden brown. Take your time: the colour of the finished dish comes from these onions.

Step 6: Add the marinated mutton with all its marinade. Turn the heat up and cook for 8–10 minutes, stirring, until the meat loses its raw colour and the liquid bubbles hard.

Step 7: Stir in 2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder, 1 ½ tsp ground cumin and 1 ½ tsp ground coriander. Lower the heat to medium-low and 'kosha' the meat: cook uncovered for 35–45 minutes, stirring and scraping the base every few minutes, adding a splash of water only if it starts to catch. It is ready when the masala is dark brown and the oil separates at the edges. Common mistake: adding a lot of water early, which stews the meat instead of frying it and leaves a pale, thin gravy.

Step 8: Pour in 1 ¾ cups hot water, return the potatoes and add 3 green chillies. Cover and simmer on a low heat for 35–45 minutes, until the meat pulls easily off the bone and the potatoes are soft. (In a pressure cooker: 4–5 whistles, then let the pressure drop naturally.)

Step 9: Uncover and cook for a few more minutes if needed, until the gravy is thick and coats the meat. Stir in 1 tbsp ghee and 1 tsp garam masala, taste for salt, then turn off the heat and rest for 10 minutes before serving with luchi or rice.