Kuri gohan (chestnut rice)

Step 1: Cover 14 oz fresh chestnuts in their shells with just-boiled water and leave for 30 minutes to soften the shells.

Step 2: Meanwhile, rinse 12 ½ oz Japanese short-grain rice and 2 ⅛ oz glutinous rice together until the water is nearly clear, drain, then soak in 2 cups water in your pan for 30 minutes.

Step 3: Cut a slice off the flat base of each chestnut, then peel back the hard shell with a small knife. Shave off the furry brown inner skin, and cut large chestnuts in half. Common mistake: leaving patches of inner skin on. It is bitter and stains the rice grey-brown.

Step 4: Soak the peeled chestnuts in cold water for 10 minutes to remove any bitterness, then drain.

Step 5: Stir 1 tsp salt and 1 tbsp sake into the rice and water, then lay 2 in kombu and the chestnuts on top without stirring.

Step 6: Cover, bring to the boil over a medium-high heat, then turn to the lowest heat and cook for 15 minutes, until all the water has been absorbed and you hear a faint crackle.

Step 7: Turn off the heat and leave covered for 10 minutes. Remove the kombu, gently fold the chestnuts through the rice and serve sprinkled with 1 tbsp toasted black sesame seeds mixed with a pinch of salt.