Chikar cholay

Step 1: Drain 9 oz dried white chickpeas and put them in a pan (or pressure cooker) with ¼ tsp bicarbonate of soda, 5 cups water and ½ tsp salt. Simmer for 45 minutes (or 20 minutes at pressure), until they squash completely between two fingers. Keep the cooking water.

Step 2: Meanwhile, heat 4 tbsp ghee in a heavy pan over a medium heat. Add 1 tsp cumin seeds for 20 seconds, then 1 onion, and fry for 8 minutes until golden.

Step 3: Add ¾ in fresh ginger and 4 cloves garlic for 1 minute, then 2 tomatoes, 2 green chillies, 1 tsp red chilli powder, 2 tsp ground coriander, 1 tsp dried pomegranate seed powder (anardana) and the rest of the salt. Cook for 6–8 minutes, until the tomatoes melt and the ghee separates at the edges.

Step 4: Tip in the chickpeas with 250 ml of their cooking water. Mash about a third of them against the side of the pan with a heavy spoon.

Step 5: Cook on a medium-low heat for 10 minutes, stirring often, until the mixture is thick enough to hold a trail when you drag the spoon. Common mistake: adding too much water; the dish should be a clinging paste, not a curry with gravy.

Step 6: Stir in ½ tsp garam masala and serve hot, topped with 1 tbsp fresh ginger, 2 tbsp coriander leaves and 1 lemon, with kulcha, puri or naan.