Laksa Johor

Step 1: Simmer 1 ⅓ lb mackerel or tuna fillets in 2 cups water for 10–12 minutes until it is opaque and flakes easily. Lift it out, keep the stock, and pick out any bones.

Step 2: Blend the fish with a little of its stock to a smooth paste.

Step 3: Heat 4 tbsp vegetable oil in a large pot and fry 10 shallots, 5 cloves garlic, 1 ⅛ in fresh ginger, 1 ⅛ in galangal and 3 stalks lemongrass for 8 minutes, then add 3 tbsp dried chilli paste and 3 tbsp fish curry powder and fry until dark and the oil separates.

Step 4: Add the fish paste, the remaining stock, 3 ¼ cups coconut milk, 4 tbsp kerisik (toasted coconut paste), 2 tbsp tamarind paste, 2 tsp salt and 1 tbsp sugar and simmer over a low heat for 30–35 minutes, stirring often, until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. A common mistake is boiling it hard, which makes the coconut milk split.

Step 5: Cook 1 ⅛ lb spaghetti in salted water until just tender, drain and rinse briefly so it stays separate.

Step 6: Put spaghetti in bowls, ladle over plenty of gravy and top with 1 cucumber, 5 ½ oz bean sprouts, 1 red onion, 1 handful mint leaves, 1 handful laksa leaves (Vietnamese coriander) and 1 torch ginger flower. Serve with 4 limes (calamansi if possible) and 6 tbsp sambal belacan.