Lasagne alla bolognese

Step 1: Heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a heavy casserole over a medium heat and fry 2 ⅞ oz pancetta until the fat runs, 3 minutes. Add 1 onion, 1 carrot and 1 stalk celery and cook gently until soft and sweet, 10 minutes.

Step 2: Raise the heat, add 1 ⅛ lb beef mince and 9 oz pork mince and cook, breaking up the lumps, until all the pink has gone and the meat is browned and sizzling, about 10 minutes.

Step 3: Pour in ¾ cup dry white wine and let it bubble away until almost gone. Stir in 2 tbsp tomato paste, 1 ¼ cups tomato passata, 1 tsp salt and ½ tsp black pepper.

Step 4: Add half the 1 cup beef stock, bring to a bare simmer, partly cover and cook on the lowest heat for 2½ hours, adding the rest of the 1 cup beef stock as it thickens and stirring in ¾ cup whole milk for the last 30 minutes. It is ready when it is thick, glossy and the fat pools at the edges.

Step 5: For the béchamel, melt 2 ⅞ oz butter in a pan over a medium heat, stir in 2 ⅞ oz plain flour and cook for 2 minutes. Whisk in 4 ¼ cups whole milk a little at a time and simmer, whisking, until thick enough to coat a spoon, 8 minutes. Season with ¼ tsp nutmeg and ½ tsp salt.

Step 6: If the pasta sheets are fresh and thin, blanch them a few at a time in boiling salted water for 30 seconds and lay them on clean tea towels. Heat the oven to 350°F.

Step 7: Spread a little béchamel in a 30 × 22 cm baking dish. Lay down a layer of 1 ⅛ lb fresh spinach (or egg) lasagne sheets, then a thin layer of ragù, a thin layer of béchamel and a handful of 4 oz parmigiano reggiano. Repeat for at least six layers. Don't drown each layer in sauce: thick, wet layers are the usual reason lasagne slumps when cut.

Step 8: Finish with pasta, béchamel and the rest of the 1 oz parmigiano reggiano, and dot with ⅔ oz butter.

Step 9: Bake for 35–40 minutes until bubbling at the edges and golden brown on top, and the centre is piping hot.

Step 10: Rest the lasagne for 15 minutes before cutting so the layers set.