Lavashak

Step 1: Put the 2 ¼ lb sour plums (or tart apricots) and ½ cup water in a pan, cover and cook over a medium heat for 15–20 minutes, stirring now and then, until the fruit collapses completely.

Step 2: Push through a sieve with a ladle to remove the skins. Return the purée to the pan with the ½ tsp salt, and the 2 tbsp sugar if using, and simmer uncovered, stirring often, for 15–20 minutes until thick enough that a spoon dragged across the base leaves a clear line.

Step 3: Heat the oven to its lowest setting, about 158°F (122°F fan). Line a large baking tray (about 30 × 40 cm) with baking paper and wipe it very lightly with the 1 tsp sunflower oil.

Step 4: Pour on the purée and spread it with a palette knife into an even layer about 3 mm thick, right into the corners. Common mistake: a thick middle and thin edges; tilt and tap the tray to level it.

Step 5: Dry in the oven with the door slightly propped open for 6–7 hours. It is done when the surface is no longer tacky in the middle and the whole sheet peels away from the paper in one piece.

Step 6: Cool, then roll up in fresh baking paper and cut into strips. Keep in an airtight jar for up to 2 months.