Lemongrass tofu noodle salad

Step 1: Mix 3 stalks lemongrass, 3 cloves garlic, 1 shallot, 3 tbsp soy sauce, 1 ½ tbsp brown sugar, 1 tsp black pepper and 1 tbsp of the 3 tbsp vegetable oil in a shallow dish. Add 1 ⅛ lb firm tofu and turn to coat. Leave for 15 minutes, turning once, while you prepare everything else.

Step 2: Cook 9 oz thin rice vermicelli (bún) in a large pan of boiling water for 4–5 minutes, or as the packet says, until soft with no white core. Drain and rinse well under cold water, then leave to drain in a sieve. Rinsing stops the noodles sticking into a clump.

Step 3: For the nước chấm, stir 3 tbsp sugar into ½ cup warm water until dissolved, then add 3 tbsp lime juice, 2 tbsp light soy sauce, 1 clove garlic and 1 red bird's eye chilli. Taste and balance: sweet, sour and salty should all come through at once.

Step 4: For the spring onion oil, put 4 spring onions and 1 pinch salt in a heatproof bowl. Heat 4 tbsp vegetable oil in a small pan until it shimmers, pour it over the onions (it will sizzle) and stir. They should turn bright green and wilt.

Step 5: Heat the remaining 3 tbsp vegetable oil in a large non-stick frying pan or griddle pan over a medium-high heat. Lift the tofu from the marinade and cook for 3–4 minutes a side, until deep golden with dark, caramelised edges. Brush with the leftover marinade in the last minute. Don't move the slices too early, or the coating tears.

Step 6: Divide 1 small head lettuce, 1 cucumber, 5 ½ oz bean sprouts and 1 large handful mint, perilla and Thai basil leaves between four wide bowls. Add a pile of noodles, then the warm tofu, cut into strips.

Step 7: Spoon over the spring onion oil and top with 5 ½ oz pickled carrot and daikon (đồ chua), 2 ⅛ oz roasted peanuts and 3 tbsp crispy fried shallots. Serve with the nước chấm in a jug: everyone pours plenty over their bowl and tosses it all together before eating.