Lilo chevdo

Step 1: Grate 1 ⅔ lb large potatoes on the long, fine shreds of a box grater or with a julienne peeler into very thin straws. Rinse in several changes of cold water until it runs clear.

Step 2: Drain and spread the straws on a clean tea towel. Pat them completely dry and leave for 10 minutes; any water will make the oil spit.

Step 3: Pour 4 ¼ cups sunflower or groundnut oil into a heavy kadai or deep pan, no more than a third of its depth, and heat over medium heat to 350°F on a thermometer. No thermometer? A single potato straw should sizzle hard and rise immediately. Stay at the stove the whole time the oil is hot and keep the handle turned inwards.

Step 4: Fry the straws in small handfuls, stirring to separate, until the noisy bubbling stops and they are crisp and pale gold. Drain on kitchen paper.

Step 5: In the same oil fry 2 ⅛ oz raw peanuts until they crackle, then 1 ¾ oz cashew halves until golden, and 1 ¾ oz raisins for a few seconds until they puff. Drain.

Step 6: Blend 8 green chillies, 1 oz fresh coriander and ⅓ oz fresh ginger to a paste with no water.

Step 7: Heat 2 tbsp sunflower oil in a wide pan over low heat. Add ¼ tsp gluten-free asafoetida (hing), 2 tbsp white sesame seeds and 15 curry leaves, then the green paste, and fry, stirring, until it dries into a dark green crumble and no moisture remains.

Step 8: Off the heat, add the potato straws, nuts and raisins, sprinkle over 3 tbsp powdered sugar, 1 ½ tsp salt and ½ tsp citric acid (limbu na phool) and toss gently with your hands until coated.

Step 9: Cool completely and store airtight for up to 2 weeks.