Madra

Step 1: Drain 9 oz dried chickpeas and cook them in 4 ¼ cups water with ½ tsp salt: 35–40 minutes in a pan at a steady simmer, or 15 minutes in a pressure cooker. They should be soft enough to crush between two fingers. Drain, keeping 150 ml of the cooking water.

Step 2: Heat 4 tbsp ghee in a heavy pan over a medium heat. Add 1 tsp cumin seeds, 4 cloves, 1 cinnamon stick, 1 black cardamom pod, 4 green cardamom pods and 2 bay leaves and fry for 40 seconds, until the cumin crackles and the cardamom puffs. Add ¼ tsp gluten-free asafoetida (hing).

Step 3: Lower the heat, add 2 tsp ground coriander, ½ tsp ground turmeric and 1 tsp red chilli powder with 3 tbsp water and stir for 1 minute, so the ground spices cook without scorching.

Step 4: Take the pan off the heat and stir in 1 ⅛ lb full-fat plain yogurt. Return it to a low heat and stir constantly for 8–10 minutes until it comes to a gentle boil. High heat here is the usual mistake: the yogurt splits into curds and the sauce turns grainy.

Step 5: Add the chickpeas, the reserved cooking water and 1 tsp salt. Simmer uncovered over a low heat for 20 minutes, stirring every few minutes, until the sauce is thick, creamy and ghee pools glossy at the edges.

Step 6: Stir in ½ tsp garam masala and 2 tbsp raisins, if using, simmer 2 more minutes and serve with steamed rice.