Madras mixture

Step 1: For the sev, mix 5 ½ oz gram flour (besan), 2 tbsp rice flour, 1 tsp red chilli powder and ¾ tsp salt, rub in 1 tbsp groundnut or sunflower oil and knead with ¼ cup water into a soft, sticky dough. Cover.

Step 2: For the boondi, whisk 3 ½ oz gram flour (besan), ½ tsp red chilli powder, ½ tsp salt and ½ cup water into a smooth batter that coats a spoon and falls in a steady ribbon. Rest for 5 minutes.

Step 3: Heat 4 ¼ cups groundnut or sunflower oil, for deep-frying in a kadhai over a medium heat to about 350°F. Fry 1 ⅜ oz thick poha (aval) in a fine sieve dipped in the oil for 20–30 seconds until it puffs and turns crisp but still pale. Drain in a large bowl lined with kitchen paper.

Step 4: Fry 2 ⅝ oz raw peanuts for 3–4 minutes until they crackle and the skins darken slightly, then 1 ¾ oz roasted gram (pottukadalai) for 30 seconds, and add both to the bowl.

Step 5: Hold a perforated spoon over the oil and pour on a ladle of batter, tapping gently so drops fall in. Fry the boondi for 1–2 minutes until the sizzle quietens and they are crisp. Common mistake: batter too thick; the drops come out with tails instead of round pearls. Add a teaspoon of water if they do.

Step 6: Fill a sev press fitted with the fine-holed plate and press the dough into the oil in circles. Fry for 1–2 minutes, turning once, until crisp and golden. Drain and break into 3–4 cm pieces when cool.

Step 7: Fry 30 curry leaves for 15–20 seconds until they turn translucent and stop sizzling. Stand back; they spit.

Step 8: Add the boondi, sev and curry leaves to the bowl. While still warm, sprinkle over 1 tsp red chilli powder, ¼ tsp gluten-free asafoetida and ½ tsp salt and toss gently with your hands. Cool completely and store airtight for up to 3 weeks.