Jigarthanda

Step 1: Soak 2 tsp almond gum (badam pisin) in 1 cup cold water for 8 hours or overnight. It swells into a clear, soft jelly about 10 times its size; break up any hard bits.

Step 2: Bring 1 litre full-fat milk to the boil in a wide heavy pan over a medium heat, then lower to medium-low and simmer for 30–35 minutes, stirring every few minutes and scraping the sides back in, until it has reduced by about half.

Step 3: Stir in 2 ⅛ oz sugar and simmer for 3–4 more minutes until the milk turns a pale beige and smells lightly caramelised. Common mistake: leaving it unstirred on high heat; the bottom scorches and the whole pan tastes burnt. Keep the heat moderate and scrape the bottom.

Step 4: Cool the milk, then chill it for at least 4 hours, or overnight. It thickens to the texture of single cream.

Step 5: To assemble, put 2 tbsp of the almond gum jelly in each tall glass, add 1 tbsp 4 tbsp nannari (sarsaparilla) syrup, a couple of 8 ice cubes cubes if using, then fill with the chilled milk.

Step 6: Top each glass with a scoop of 4 scoop eggless vanilla ice cream and serve at once with a long spoon, so everyone can stir the layers together.