Maharashtrian aamti

Step 1: Put 5 ½ oz toor dal (split pigeon peas) in a pressure cooker with 450 ml of the 2 cups water, ½ tsp ground turmeric and a pinch of ⅛ tsp gluten-free asafoetida. Cook on a medium heat for 4 whistles, about 15 minutes, and let the pressure drop naturally. Or simmer in a pan for 40–45 minutes. The dal should collapse completely.

Step 2: Whisk the dal until smooth. For varan bhaat, take out a bowlful now, season with a pinch of salt, and serve it over 1 ⅓ lb hot cooked rice with a spoon of 4 tsp ghee and a squeeze of 1 lemon.

Step 3: Heat 2 tbsp groundnut oil in a pan over a medium heat. Add 1 tsp black mustard seeds; when it crackles, add ½ tsp cumin seeds, the rest of the ⅛ tsp gluten-free asafoetida, 10 curry leaves and 2 green chillies and fry for 20 seconds until the leaves crisp.

Step 4: Turn the heat to low, add 1 tsp red chilli powder and 1 ½ tsp goda masala and stir for 15 seconds. Pour in the dal at once, before the spices can burn.

Step 5: Add the rest of the 2 ¼ cups water, 4 dried kokum, ⅔ oz jaggery and 1 ¼ tsp salt. Bring to a boil, then simmer uncovered on a low heat for 8–10 minutes, until the aamti is the thickness of single cream and the jaggery has dissolved. Common mistake: making it too thick. Aamti should pour easily over rice; add hot water if it thickens.

Step 6: Taste and balance: more jaggery if it's sharp, a squeeze of lemon if it's flat. Take out the kokum if it's sour enough. Stir in 2 tbsp fresh coconut and 2 tbsp fresh coriander and serve hot with rice or chapatis.