Makguksu

Step 1: Stir together 2 tbsp gochujang (Korean chilli paste), 1 tsp gochugaru (Korean chilli flakes), 2 tbsp rice vinegar, 1 tbsp sugar, 1 tbsp soy sauce, ¼ Asian pear or ripe pear, 1 clove garlic and 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil until smooth. Leave for 10 minutes so the chilli flakes soften and the flavours come together.

Step 2: Bring a large pan of water to a rolling boil and cook 7 oz dried buckwheat noodles (memil guksu or soba) for 1 minute less than the packet says, stirring at the start so they don't clump. They should be just tender with a firm core.

Step 3: Drain and rinse under cold running water, rubbing the noodles between your hands for about 1 minute until they no longer feel slippery. Drop into iced water for a minute, then drain very well and twist into two nests.

Step 4: Put the nests in shallow bowls, spoon over the dressing and top with ½ cucumber, ¼ Asian pear, 1 ¾ oz red cabbage or lettuce, 2 tsp toasted sesame seeds and 1 sheet roasted seaweed (gim).

Step 5: Toss at the table with chopsticks. Pour in ¾ cup cold kelp stock or water halfway through if you like it soupier and milder. A common mistake is cooking the noodles until soft, as for hot soup: buckwheat turns mushy once chilled, so take them off while they still have bite.