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Malai ko

Mǎ lā gōu (馬拉糕): tall, springy brown-sugar sponge steamed in a bamboo basket

Cut from a towering round the colour of toffee, wedges of malai ko arrive on the dim sum trolleys of old Hong Kong teahouses alongside the morning's first pot of tea. The crumb is moist, open and bouncy, with a deep caramel note from dark brown sugar and a gentle richness from evaporated milk. The name means 'Malay cake', a nod to the Southeast Asian steamed cakes said to have inspired Cantonese bakers, and it is eaten warm, just as it is, often as the last sweet bite of breakfast. The cake sinks when the eggs and sugar aren't whisked long enough to hold a trail, so give them the full time. Chef's tip: wrap the steamer lid in a tea towel so condensation can't drip onto the top and leave sticky dents.
Total time
75 min
Difficulty
medium
Serves
8
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Ingredients

Serves8

For the cake

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Method

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  1. Step 1: Line a 20 cm bamboo steamer or round cake tin with baking paper, letting it come 3 cm above the rim so the cake can rise against it.

  2. Step 2: Put water in a wok, set the steamer stand in place and bring to the boil while you mix. Wrap the steamer lid in a clean tea towel.

  3. Step 3: Whisk 4 eggs with 4 ½ oz dark brown sugar with an electric mixer on a high speed for 8–10 minutes, until thick, pale caramel in colour and a ribbon falling from the whisk sits on the surface for a few seconds.

    10 min
  4. Step 4: Whisk ¼ cup evaporated milk and ¼ cup neutral oil together, then pour in a thin stream into the egg foam with the mixer on low, just until blended.

  5. Step 5: Sift 5 ½ oz cake flour or plain flour, ½ oz custard powder, 2 tsp baking powder and ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda over the bowl in two goes, folding with a spatula after each until no dry streaks remain. Fold from the bottom and stop as soon as it is smooth, or you will knock out the air.

  6. Step 6: Leave the batter to rest for 15 minutes; tiny bubbles appear on the surface as the raising agents start working.

    15 min
  7. Step 7: Pour the batter into the lined steamer or tin and tap it once on the counter to pop large bubbles.

  8. Step 8: Steam over a high heat for 35 minutes without opening the lid, topping up with boiling water if needed. The cake is done when it has domed and cracked slightly on top and a skewer in the centre comes out clean.

    35 min
  9. Step 9: Turn off the heat and leave for 3 minutes before lifting the lid, then lift out the cake by the paper.

    3 min
  10. Step 10: Cut into tall wedges with a serrated knife and serve warm. Re-steam leftovers for 5 minutes to bring back the bounce.

Nutrition per serving

Calories
270 kcal
Protein
6 g
Carbs
34 g
Fat
12 g
Fibre
1 g

Nutrition values are estimates.

K
Recipe by

KrazyBadal

All recipes by this chef →

Good to know

How long does malai ko take?
About 75 minutes in total: 35 minutes to prepare and 40 minutes to cook.
How many people does it serve?
8 as written. Change the servings above the ingredients and every amount scales to match.
Is it vegetarian?
Yes. It has no meat or fish.
What can I use instead of eggs?
1 tbsp ground flaxseed + 3 tbsp water per egg, left for 5 minutes (baking only; vegan).
What can I use instead of dark brown sugar?
White sugar + 1 tbsp molasses or treacle per 200g.

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