Mangalore buns

Step 1: In a large bowl, mash 2 very ripe bananas with 1 ¾ oz sugar to a smooth purée with no lumps. Stir in 3 tbsp natural yogurt, ½ tsp salt, 1 tsp cumin seeds and ¼ tsp bicarbonate of soda.

Step 2: Add 10 ½ oz plain flour (maida) a handful at a time and bring it together into a soft, sticky dough. Add 1 tbsp ghee and knead for 3–4 minutes until it is smooth and only slightly tacky. Don't add more flour than you need; it firms up as it rests.

Step 3: Cover the bowl and leave the dough at room temperature for 6–8 hours, or overnight in a cool kitchen. It will soften and smell sweet and slightly tangy.

Step 4: Divide the dough into 12 balls. Lightly oil your hands and the board and roll each into a round about 10 cm across and 5–6 mm thick, much thicker than a regular puri. Use a little extra flour if it sticks, but dust off the excess.

Step 5: Heat 3 ¼ cups sunflower oil in a kadai over a medium heat to about 350°F; a small piece of dough should rise to the top steadily within 3 seconds.

Step 6: Slide in one or two buns. Gently press them under the oil with a slotted spoon so they puff up into balloons, then fry for about 2 minutes per side, until deep golden-brown. Common mistake: oil that is too hot; the sugar in the dough browns fast, and a hot pan gives dark buns that are raw inside.

Step 7: Drain on kitchen paper and serve warm with 1 cup coconut chutney or sambar. They stay soft for a few hours and are good cold in a lunchbox.