Masale bhaat

Step 1: Rinse 9 oz short-grain rice (ambemohor, indrayani or sona masoori) until the water runs nearly clear, then soak it for 20 minutes and drain well.

Step 2: Heat 3 tbsp groundnut oil in a heavy pan with a lid over a medium heat. Fry 15 cashews for about 1 minute until golden, then lift them out.

Step 3: Add 1 tsp black mustard seeds to the oil; when it pops, add ½ tsp cumin seeds, ¼ tsp gluten-free asafoetida, 3 cloves, 1 cinnamon stick, 1 bay leaf and 10 curry leaves and fry for 20–30 seconds until fragrant and the leaves crackle.

Step 4: Add 5 ½ oz ivy gourd (tondli) and stir-fry for 3–4 minutes until bright green and blistered in spots. Add 2 ⅝ oz green peas, fresh or frozen and cook for 1 minute.

Step 5: Turn the heat down, add 2 tsp goda masala, 1 tsp red chilli powder and ½ tsp ground turmeric and stir for 20 seconds, then add the drained rice. Stir gently for 2 minutes so every grain is coated and turns opaque at the edges.

Step 6: Pour in 2 ¼ cups hot water, add 2 tsp jaggery and 1 ¼ tsp salt and taste the water: it should be slightly saltier than soup. Bring to a boil, then cover tightly and cook on the lowest heat for 12–14 minutes. Common mistake: lifting the lid and stirring. The rice breaks and turns mushy; leave it alone until the time is up.

Step 7: Turn off the heat and leave it covered for 5 minutes. Fluff gently with a fork, scatter over 4 tbsp fresh coconut, 3 tbsp fresh coriander and the cashews, and serve with 1 lemon wedges and a bowl of kadhi or spiced buttermilk.