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Matsumae-zuke (squid and kelp pickle)

Shredded dried squid, kelp and carrot marinated into a sticky, savoury Hokkaido relish

Matsumae-zuke is Hokkaido's gift to the New Year table, named after the old Matsumae domain whose ports traded in dried squid and kombu; families make a big jar at the end of December to eat through Shōgatsu, with kombu ('yorokobu', joy) and herring roe for many children. As it sits, the kelp releases its natural stickiness, so the chewy squid and crisp carrot are bound in a glossy, savoury-sweet, deeply umami dressing. The marinade uses sake and mirin, both rice wines, boiled to drive off most of the alcohol; for none at all, use water instead of the sake and 3 tbsp water plus 1 tbsp sugar instead of the mirin. Serve a spoonful over hot rice or as a nibble with drinks. Chef's tip: cut the squid and kombu with dry kitchen scissors; wet ones stick and tear.
Total time
30 min
Difficulty
easy
Serves
6
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Ingredients

Serves6

For the marinade

  • 3 tbsp sakeor 3 tbsp water for no alcohol
  • 3 tbsp mirinor 3 tbsp water + 1 tbsp sugar for no alcohol
  • 4 tbsp soy sauce
  • 1 tsp sugar

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Method

0/5 done
  1. Step 1: Bring 3 tbsp sake, 3 tbsp mirin, 4 tbsp soy sauce and 1 tsp sugar to the boil in a small pan and simmer for 1 minute until the sharp alcohol smell has gone. Pour into a bowl and leave to cool completely.

    8 min
  2. Step 2: Put 1 oz dried squid (surume), ⅔ oz kombu (dried kelp), 1 carrot and ⅓ oz fresh ginger in a clean container and toss so the strips are evenly mixed.

    3 min
  3. Step 3: Pour the cooled marinade over and mix well. Common mistake: pouring it on hot; the carrot goes limp and loses its crunch.

    2 min
  4. Step 4: Cover and refrigerate for at least 24 hours, stirring 2–3 times, until the kombu has turned sticky and threads cling between the strips when you lift them with chopsticks.

    3 min
  5. Step 5: Stir in 2 ⅛ oz desalted herring roe (kazunoko) if using, a few hours before serving. Keep in the fridge and eat within a week.

    2 min

Nutrition per serving

Calories
60 kcal
Protein
7 g
Carbs
7 g
Fat
0 g
Fibre
2 g

Nutrition values are estimates.

K
Recipe by

KrazyBadal

All recipes by this chef →

Good to know

How long does matsumae-zuke (squid and kelp pickle) take?
About 30 minutes in total: 20 minutes to prepare and 10 minutes to cook.
How many people does it serve?
6 as written. Change the servings above the ingredients and every amount scales to match.
Can I make it ahead?
Yes. It keeps well, so you can cook it earlier in the day or the day before and reheat it.
What can I use instead of carrot?
Parsnip or sweet potato, same weight.
What can I use instead of mirin?
Rice vinegar with ½ tsp sugar per tbsp.

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