Mawa bati

Step 1: Put 14 oz sugar, 1 ¾ cups water, 4 green cardamom pods and ¼ tsp saffron threads in a wide pan and bring to the boil on medium, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Simmer for 6–7 minutes until slightly sticky between finger and thumb but not yet forming a thread. Keep warm on the lowest heat.

Step 2: Mix 2 tbsp pistachios, 2 tbsp almonds, 1 tbsp sugar, ½ tsp ground cardamom and ⅛ tsp saffron threads into a crumbly paste and roll into 10 small pea-sized balls.

Step 3: In a large bowl, rub 9 oz khoya (mawa) and 1 ¾ oz paneer with the heel of your hand for 3–4 minutes until completely smooth and no grains remain. Add 1 ⅜ oz plain flour and ⅛ tsp bicarbonate of soda and knead gently, adding 2 tbsp whole milk a few drops at a time, until the dough is soft and supple, like a smooth play dough.

Step 4: Divide into 10 portions. Flatten one into a cup in your palm, set a filling ball inside, close it and roll between your palms into a smooth oval or ball with no cracks at all. Cracks are the usual mistake: they split open in the oil and drink syrup unevenly, so roll again with a dab of milk if you see any.

Step 5: Heat 2 ½ cups ghee or vegetable oil in a kadai on low to about 275°F: a small piece of dough should rise slowly with a few lazy bubbles. Slide in 4–5 bati and keep the oil gently moving with a spoon rather than touching them for the first 2 minutes.

Step 6: Fry for 12–15 minutes, turning often, until they swell a little and turn an even deep reddish-brown, darker than gulab jamun. If they colour in under 8 minutes, the oil is too hot and the centre will stay raw.

Step 7: Drain for 30 seconds and drop into the warm (not boiling) syrup. Repeat with the rest. Soak for at least 2 hours, turning once, until heavy and syrup-soaked to the middle. Serve warm, halved to show the filling.