Mechado

Step 1: Push a long, thin knife through each piece of 2 ¼ lb beef chuck or topside along the grain, then thread a strip of 2 ⅞ oz pork back fat into each slit. Two or three strips per chunk is plenty.

Step 2: Mix the ¼ cup soy sauce and 3 tbsp calamansi juice in a bowl, turn the beef in it, cover and marinate in the fridge for 30 minutes.

Step 3: Lift the beef out (keep the marinade) and pat dry. Heat the 3 tbsp vegetable oil in a heavy casserole over a medium-high heat and brown the beef, two or three pieces at a time, until deep brown on every side. Common mistake: crowding the pot; the meat steams and turns grey instead of browning.

Step 4: Lower the heat to medium, add the 1 onion and 6 cloves garlic and cook until soft, about 4 minutes, then add the 3 tomatoes and cook until they collapse, about 4 minutes.

Step 5: Return the beef with the marinade, 1 cup tomato passata, 3 cups water, 2 bay leaves, 1 tsp ground black pepper and 1 tsp sugar. Bring to the boil, cover and simmer over a low heat for 1 hour 15 minutes, turning the beef once or twice.

Step 6: Add the 3 potatoes and 1 carrot and simmer, half covered, for 20–25 minutes, until the vegetables are tender and the beef yields when pressed with a spoon.

Step 7: Lift the beef onto a board and slice it thickly across the grain so each slice shows the pork fat. Return to the sauce, warm through for 2 minutes and serve.