Mee krob (crispy sweet noodles, jay style)

Step 1: Heat 4 ¼ cups neutral oil in a wok or deep pan to 375°F. Test with one strand of 3 ½ oz dried rice vermicelli: it should puff white within a second.

Step 2: Drop in a small handful of noodles; they puff at once. Flip the nest with tongs for 2 seconds, then lift onto paper while still white, before they brown. Repeat in batches.

Step 3: Fry 5 ½ oz firm tofu in the same oil until deep golden and crisp, about 5 minutes. Drain well. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of oil once cool.

Step 4: In the wok over a medium heat, simmer 3 tbsp tamarind paste, 2 ⅞ oz palm sugar, 1 tbsp light soy sauce, ¼ tsp salt and the orange juice, stirring, until thick and syrupy with big slow bubbles, about 5 minutes. Stir in 1 tbsp orange zest and 2 tbsp pickled ginger and leave to cool for 5 minutes until tacky.

Step 5: Just before eating, toss the noodles and tofu in the glaze with two spatulas, gently, until lightly coated but still crisp.

Step 6: Pile onto a plate and serve with 3 ½ oz bean sprouts, 1 handful coriander leaves and 1 long red chilli.