Meen achar

Step 1: Wash a 750 ml glass jar and its lid in hot soapy water, rinse, and dry in a 250°F oven for 15 minutes. Let it cool; it must be completely dry.

Step 2: Pat 1 ⅛ lb seer fish (neymeen) or tuna very dry with kitchen paper and toss with 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder, ½ tsp ground turmeric and 1 tsp salt. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Step 3: Heat ¾ cup gingelly (sesame) oil in a kadai over a medium heat. Fry the fish in 2–3 batches for 6–8 minutes each, turning, until deep golden, crisp outside and opaque and firm all the way through. Drain on kitchen paper and let cool. Common mistake: lightly fried, still-moist fish; it goes soft and spoils quickly in the jar.

Step 4: Strain the frying oil and pour it into a clean pan with ½ cup gingelly (sesame) oil. Heat over a medium heat, add 1 tsp black mustard seeds and, when it pops, ¼ tsp fenugreek seeds for a few seconds until golden, not dark.

Step 5: Add 2 ⅛ oz garlic, 1 ⅜ oz fresh ginger, 6 green chillies and 25 curry leaves and fry for 4–5 minutes until the garlic is pale gold and the curry leaves are crisp.

Step 6: Turn the heat to its lowest and stir in 3 tbsp Kashmiri chilli powder, 1 tbsp hot red chilli powder, ½ tsp ground turmeric, ½ tsp roasted fenugreek powder and ½ tsp gluten-free asafoetida. Stir for 30 seconds only so the chilli doesn't burn.

Step 7: Pour in ¾ cup white vinegar carefully (it will spit), add 1 tsp sugar and 1 ½ tsp salt and bring to a simmer for 2 minutes until it thickens slightly.

Step 8: Add the fried fish and stir gently to coat. Take off the heat and leave to cool completely, uncovered.

Step 9: Spoon into the dry jar, pressing the fish down, and make sure a layer of oil sits on top; if not, heat a little more sesame oil, cool it and pour it over. Close the lid.

Step 10: Leave in the fridge for 2 days before eating so the fish absorbs the masala. Keep it refrigerated, always use a clean, dry spoon and eat within 4 weeks. Discard it if you see mould or it smells off.