Mulinciani chini

Step 1: Bring a large pan of water to the boil with ½ tsp salt. Halve 4 medium aubergines lengthways and scoop out the flesh with a spoon, leaving a shell about 1 cm thick. Chop the flesh into small cubes.

Step 2: Blanch the shells in the boiling water for 4 minutes, until just softened, then lay them cut side down on a tea towel to drain.

Step 3: Put the chopped flesh in a clean tea towel and squeeze hard over the sink to press out as much juice as you can. Common mistake: skipping the squeeze; the filling turns watery and the stuffing slumps out of the shells as it bakes.

Step 4: Heat 3 tablespoons of 2 ½ tbsp extra virgin olive oil in a frying pan over a medium-high heat. Fry the aubergine cubes with 1 cloves garlic and ½ tsp salt for 8 minutes, until golden and soft. Tip into a bowl and cool for 5 minutes.

Step 5: Soak 4 oz stale country bread, crusts off in cold water for 2 minutes, then squeeze it dry and crumble it into the bowl.

Step 6: Add 2 ⅞ oz pecorino, 2 eggs, 10 basil leaves, 2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley and ½ tsp black pepper and mix to a soft, thick filling that holds its shape on a spoon. Heat the oven to 375°F (350°F fan).

Step 7: Mix 1 ¾ cups tomato passata with 1 cloves garlic, ½ tsp salt and 100 ml water and pour it into a baking dish just large enough to hold the aubergines.

Step 8: Pack the filling into the shells, mounding it slightly, and set them in the sauce. Drizzle with 1 ½ tbsp extra virgin olive oil.

Step 9: Bake for 35–40 minutes, until the tops are golden and firm, the shells collapse softly under a knife and the sauce has thickened.

Step 10: Rest for at least 15 minutes before serving with the sauce spooned over; they are also very good at room temperature.