Memelas oaxaqueñas

Step 1: Mix 10 ½ oz masa harina, ½ tsp salt and most of 1 ¾ cups warm water and knead for 2 minutes into a dough that feels like soft play-dough and does not crack at the edges when you press a ball flat. Add water a spoon at a time if it cracks.

Step 2: Divide into 12 balls and keep them under a damp cloth.

Step 3: If using butter, melt 1 ⅜ oz butter in a small pan over a medium heat and cook for 3 minutes, swirling, until it foams and smells nutty and the specks turn brown. Take it off the heat.

Step 4: Heat a dry comal or heavy frying pan over a medium-high heat. Press a ball between two sheets of plastic into an oval about 1 cm thick and 10 cm long.

Step 5: Cook it for 2 minutes, until it releases easily, then flip and cook 2 minutes more, until the base has brown freckles.

Step 6: Lift it off, hold it with a damp cloth and pinch a small rim all round with your fingertips. Return it, rim up, to the comal. Repeat with the rest, cooking 3–4 at a time. Common mistake: making them thin like tortillas; they should stay thick and soft in the middle.

Step 7: Brush each memela with browned 1 ⅜ oz butter, spread with 10 ½ oz refried black beans, spoon over ¾ cup red or green salsa and scatter with 4 oz queso fresco and ¼ white onion. Leave on the comal for 1 minute so the base crisps again, then serve hot.