Mole negro con pollo

Step 1: Put 4 ⅜ lb bone-in chicken pieces (thighs, drumsticks, breasts), 12 ½ cups water, 1 white onion, 4 cloves garlic and ½ tbsp salt in a large pot. Bring to a gentle simmer over a medium heat, skim off the grey foam, then cook at a bare simmer until the thickest piece reaches 165°F and the juices run clear.

Step 2: Lift out the chicken and keep it covered in the fridge. Strain the broth and keep it warm: you will need about 2 litres for the mole.

Step 3: Toast 6 dried pasilla chillies, 4 dried mulato chillies, 4 dried ancho chillies and 4 dried guajillo chillies in a dry heavy pan over a medium heat, a few at a time, pressing them flat for 20–30 seconds a side until they turn very dark and smell smoky. The most common mistake is going all the way to burnt: if they turn ash-grey or smell acrid, throw them out, or the whole pot will be bitter.

Step 4: Soak the toasted chillies in 1 litre of hot broth until soft, about 20 minutes.

Step 5: In the same dry pan over a high heat, char 1 stale corn tortilla and the reserved chilli seeds until black all over. Tip them into a bowl of cold water for 5 minutes to draw out the harsh bitterness, then drain.

Step 6: Roast 2 tomatoes, 3 tomatillos, 1 white onion and 6 cloves garlic on the pan over a medium-high heat, turning, until blistered and soft. Peel the garlic.

Step 7: Heat 2 tablespoons of 2 ½ tbsp vegetable oil or lard in a frying pan over a medium heat. Fry 1 ¾ oz sesame seeds until golden, then 1 ⅜ oz blanched almonds and 1 ⅜ oz unsalted peanuts until lightly browned, then 1 ⅜ oz raisins until they puff. Lift each out with a slotted spoon as it is done.

Step 8: In the same oil, fry 1 very ripe plantain until deep golden on both sides, then fry 1 ⅜ oz egg bread or brioche until crisp.

Step 9: Toast 2 in cinnamon stick, 4 whole cloves, 1 tsp black peppercorns, 4 allspice berries, ¼ tsp cumin seeds, 1 tsp dried Mexican oregano and ½ tsp dried thyme in a dry pan over a low heat for 1–2 minutes, just until fragrant.

Step 10: Blend the chillies with their soaking broth until completely smooth. Blend the charred tortilla and seeds, roasted vegetables, fried nuts, plantain, bread and spices with about 500 ml more broth, in batches if needed, to a thick, smooth paste.

Step 11: Heat the rest of ¼ cup vegetable oil or lard in a large heavy pot over a medium-high heat. Pour in the chilli purée (it will spit) and fry, stirring, for 10 minutes until it darkens and thickens. Add the nut and vegetable paste and 2 dried avocado leaves.

Step 12: Turn the heat to low and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom, until the mole is glossy, almost black and oil beads on the surface. Add broth a ladle at a time whenever it gets too thick.

Step 13: Stir in 3 ⅛ oz Mexican drinking chocolate and 2 tbsp sugar until melted, then season with the rest of ½ tbsp salt. Thin with broth until the mole coats the back of a spoon thickly. Taste: it should be smoky, slightly bitter and gently sweet.

Step 14: Add the chicken pieces and simmer gently until heated right through to 165°F in the thickest part. Serve on warm plates, sprinkled with 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds, with cooked white rice and warm tortillas.