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Muhlama

Muhlama (kuymak): the Black Sea's stretchy pan of butter, cornmeal and melted cheese

Up in the yayla summer pastures above Trabzon and Rize, breakfast often arrives as one blackened pan set in the middle of the table, with everyone tearing bread and dragging it through. Muhlama is butter, coarse cornmeal and a young stringy cheese stirred together until the cheese melts into long, glossy threads and a pool of golden butter rises to the top. Eat it straight from the pan with cornbread or crusty bread, black tea and a plate of tomatoes and cucumbers. Common mistake: adding the cheese before the cornmeal has toasted in the butter, which leaves a raw, gritty taste and stops the oil separating. The Black Sea cheese (Trabzon or Kolot) and kaşar are usually made with animal rennet; a vegetarian mozzarella-style cheese works well. Chef's tip: don't stir once the cheese has gone in until it has fully melted, then stir in one direction only; that is what gives the long, elastic strands.
Total time
20 min
Difficulty
easy
Serves
3
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Ingredients

Serves3

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Method

0/6 done
  1. Step 1: Melt 2 ⅞ oz butter in a small, heavy frying pan (about 20 cm) over a medium-low heat until it foams.

    2 min
  2. Step 2: Sprinkle in 3 tbsp coarse cornmeal and stir for 3–4 minutes, until it smells toasty and turns a shade darker. Don't let the butter brown hard.

    4 min
  3. Step 3: Pour in ¾ cup water and stir; it will bubble up. Simmer gently for 3–4 minutes, stirring, until it thickens to a loose porridge.

    4 min
  4. Step 4: Scatter 9 oz stringy melting cheese (Trabzon cheese, kaşar or low-moisture mozzarella) over the top and add ¼ tsp salt if using. Leave it alone over a low heat for 2–3 minutes, until the cheese has completely melted.

    3 min
  5. Step 5: Now stir slowly in one direction for about a minute. The cheese should pull into long strings and butter should start to seep out round the edges; that clear butter means it's ready.

    2 min
  6. Step 6: Bring the pan straight to the table and eat at once with cornbread (gluten-free corn bread keeps it gluten free) or crusty bread, pulling up strands of cheese with each piece.

Nutrition per serving

Calories
520 kcal
Protein
21 g
Carbs
9 g
Fat
45 g
Fibre
1 g

Nutrition values are estimates.

K
Recipe by

KrazyBadal

All recipes by this chef →

Good to know

How long does muhlama take?
About 20 minutes in total: 5 minutes to prepare and 15 minutes to cook.
How many people does it serve?
3 as written. Change the servings above the ingredients and every amount scales to match.
Is it vegetarian?
Yes. It has no meat or fish.
Is it gluten free?
Yes, as written. Check the labels on stock, sauces and spice mixes, which sometimes contain gluten.
What can I use instead of butter?
The same weight of ghee or coconut oil (for frying and most baking).

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