Mứt tắc (candied kumquats)

Step 1: Rub 1 ⅛ lb kumquats with 1 tbsp salt, rinse, and cut 5–6 shallow slits from top to bottom around each fruit with a small knife, without cutting through the core.

Step 2: Press each fruit gently between your thumb and finger until it flattens a little, and push out the seeds through the slits with a toothpick.

Step 3: Wearing gloves, stir 1 tsp food-grade slaked lime (calcium hydroxide) into 1.5 litres cold water in a glass bowl and leave for 15 minutes until the powder settles. Pour off only the clear water and discard the sediment.

Step 4: Soak the kumquats in the clear lime water for 1 hour. No-lime method: skip this soak and go straight to the blanching.

Step 5: Rinse the fruit under running water, then soak in fresh water, changing it 4–5 times, until the fruit no longer feels slippery.

Step 6: Blanch the kumquats in boiling water for 2 minutes, drain, then blanch again in fresh boiling water. Drain and press each one lightly to squeeze out excess water.

Step 7: Toss the kumquats with 14 oz white sugar in a wide pan and leave for at least 30 minutes, until the sugar has mostly dissolved into syrup.

Step 8: Add ½ cup water and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat, then cook gently for 40 minutes, turning the fruit occasionally, until they look translucent and the syrup coats a spoon. Common mistake: high heat, which caramelises the syrup brown and makes the skins tough.

Step 9: Lift the fruit onto a rack and simmer the syrup alone for 5 minutes more until it is thick. Return the fruit, turn to coat, then lift out again.

Step 10: While warm, roll each kumquat between your palms to push it back into a round shape. Dry on the rack for several hours until no longer sticky, or in a 140°F oven for 1 hour. Store airtight for up to 1 month.