Kishimen (Nagoya flat noodle soup)

Step 1: Put the 3 cups water and ⅛ oz kombu (dried kelp) in a pan over a medium heat. Remove the kombu just before the water boils.

Step 2: Add the ½ oz dried bonito flakes (katsuobushi), turn off the heat and leave for 2 minutes, then strain through a fine sieve. Return the dashi to the pan and add the 2 tbsp light soy sauce (usukuchi), 2 tbsp mirin and ¼ tsp salt. Mirin adds a little alcohol; simmering the broth for 1 minute drives most of it off, or use 2 teaspoons of sugar instead.

Step 3: Put a large pan of unsalted water on to boil for the noodles.

Step 4: In a small frying pan, simmer the 1 thin fried tofu (aburaage) with the 1 tsp sugar, 1 tsp soy sauce and 3 tablespoons of water over a medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until the liquid is almost gone.

Step 5: Blanch the 3 ½ oz komatsuna or spinach in the noodle water for 30 seconds, lift out, rinse in cold water, squeeze dry and cut into 4 cm lengths.

Step 6: Cook the 7 oz dried kishimen noodles in the same boiling water according to the packet (usually 6 to 8 minutes for dried), stirring at the start so the flat strands do not stick together.

Step 7: Drain the noodles and rinse them briefly under hot water. Common mistake: tipping them straight from the pot into the soup. The surface starch makes the broth gloopy and dull; a quick rinse keeps it clear.

Step 8: Divide the noodles between two warm bowls and ladle over the hot broth. Top with the fried tofu, spinach, 4 slices kamaboko fish cake and 1 spring onion, then pile on the ¼ oz dried bonito flakes, to top at the table and eat at once.