Nasi uduk

Step 1: Blend 4 garlic cloves, 4 shallots, 1 tsp ground turmeric, 1 tsp ground coriander and 1 tsp salt to a paste. Put 1 ¾ lb bone-in chicken thighs and drumsticks in a pan with the paste and 1 ¾ cups water, cover and simmer over a medium heat for 20 minutes, turning once, until the liquid has nearly gone. If you marinate it ahead, keep it in the fridge.

Step 2: Meanwhile, rinse 14 oz jasmine or long-grain rice until the water runs clear. Put it in a pan with 1 ¾ cups coconut milk, ¾ cup water, 1 lemongrass stalk, ¾ in galangal, 3 salam leaves (Indonesian bay leaves) and 1 tsp salt and bring to the boil, stirring so the bottom doesn't catch.

Step 3: Simmer, uncovered, for 6–8 minutes, until the liquid has been absorbed and small holes appear on the surface. Cover tightly, turn the heat to its lowest and steam for 15 minutes, then rest off the heat for 5 minutes.

Step 4: Pour 2 cups vegetable oil into a deep, heavy pan so it comes no more than a third of the way up the sides, and heat it to 350°F. Check with a thermometer, or drop in a cube of bread: it should turn golden in about 60 seconds. Never leave the hot oil unattended.

Step 5: Pat the chicken dry and fry in batches for 4–5 minutes, turning, until deep golden and the thickest part reaches 165°F. Drain on paper. Common mistake: frying straight from wet; the oil spits and the skin never crisps.

Step 6: Fry 5 ½ oz tempeh in the same oil for 3 minutes, until crisp and golden, lift out, then toss in a hot pan with 2 tbsp kecap manis (sweet soy sauce) for 1 minute until sticky.

Step 7: Beat 2 eggs with a pinch of salt and cook as a thin omelette in a lightly oiled pan for 1–2 minutes, until set right through. Roll up and slice into thin strips.

Step 8: Remove the lemongrass, galangal and leaves from the rice and fluff it up. Serve each plate with chicken, tempeh, omelette strips, 4 tbsp sambal (chilli paste) and ½ cucumber, scattered with 4 tbsp crisp fried shallots.