New York bagels

Step 1: Mix the 1 ⅛ lb strong white bread flour, 2 tsp salt, half the 1 tbsp barley malt syrup or honey, ⅛ oz instant dried yeast and 1 ¼ cups lukewarm water to a stiff dough. Knead for 10 minutes until smooth and firm; it is drier than bread dough.

Step 2: Divide into 8 pieces of about 100 g, roll each into a ball and rest under a cloth for 10 minutes.

Step 3: Push your thumb through each ball and stretch the hole to 4 cm, as it shrinks back. Set on a tray dusted with 2 tbsp cornmeal, cover with oiled cling film and refrigerate overnight.

Step 4: Heat the oven to 450°F (400°F fan). Bring a wide pan of water to the boil with the rest of the 1 tbsp barley malt syrup or honey and the 1 tbsp bicarbonate of soda. Do the float test with one bagel.

Step 5: Boil the bagels 3 at a time for 1 minute a side; they puff and wrinkle slightly. Lift out with a slotted spoon, drain and dip the tops in 3 tbsp sesame or poppy seeds if using.

Step 6: Bake on a lined tray for 18–20 minutes until deep golden and shiny. A common mistake is pulling them pale, which gives a soft, bready crust. Cool 20 minutes before cutting.