Num kong

Step 1: Warm 2 ⅞ oz palm sugar and ½ cup water in a small pan over a low heat, stirring, for 2–3 minutes, until the sugar has dissolved. Leave to cool until just warm.

Step 2: Mix 7 oz glutinous rice flour, 1 ¾ oz rice flour, ½ tsp baking powder and ¼ tsp salt in a bowl. Pour in the syrup a little at a time, stirring with a spoon, then bring it together with your hands.

Step 3: Knead for 4–5 minutes, until the dough is smooth, soft and supple, like an earlobe, with no cracks when you squeeze a piece. Add a teaspoon of water or flour if needed. Cover and rest for 10 minutes.

Step 4: Divide into 12 pieces. Roll each into a rope about 15 cm long and 1.5 cm thick, then join the ends into a ring, pinching and smoothing the seam so it won't split. Keep the rings covered with a damp cloth so they don't dry out.

Step 5: Heat 1 litre vegetable oil in a deep, heavy pan to 325°F; a cube of bread should take about 30 seconds to turn golden. Never fill the pan more than half full.

Step 6: Fry 3 or 4 rings at a time for 6–7 minutes, turning now and then, until they puff slightly and turn an even, deep golden brown and sound hollow when tapped. Stand back as you add them, and keep the temperature steady.

Step 7: Lift out with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. Fry the rest in batches, letting the oil come back to temperature between each.

Step 8: For the glaze, put 2 ⅞ oz palm sugar and 3 tbsp water in a wide frying pan over a medium heat. Bubble for 2–3 minutes, stirring, until thick and sticky and the bubbles turn large and slow.

Step 9: Turn off the heat, add the fried rings and toss quickly until each is coated in a thin shiny glaze.

Step 10: Scatter over 3 tbsp white sesame seeds while the glaze is still tacky, turning the rings so the seeds stick all over. Cool on baking paper for 10 minutes; the glaze sets crisp. Eat the same day.