Onomichi ramen

Step 1: Rinse the chicken 1 ⅓ lb chicken wings or a chicken carcass, put them in a large pot with the 6 ¼ cups water and bring to the boil over a high heat. Skim off all the grey foam.

Step 2: Turn the heat to low and add the 3 slices fresh ginger, 2 spring onion green tops and the 2 ⅛ oz pork back fat in one piece. Simmer gently, uncovered, for 25 minutes.

Step 3: Meanwhile, pinch the heads off the ⅔ oz dried sardines (niboshi) and pull out the dark bellies. Soak the cleaned fish with the ⅛ oz kombu (dried kelp) in 200 ml of the hot broth, ladled into a bowl.

Step 4: Add the soaked niboshi, kombu and their liquid to the pot. Simmer at a bare bubble for 20 more minutes. Common mistake: boiling the dried fish hard. Fierce boiling makes the broth bitter and murky; keep it barely moving.

Step 5: Lift out the back fat, which should now be soft and wobbly. Chop it very finely on a board until it looks like coarse crumbs and keep it warm in a small bowl with a ladle of broth.

Step 6: Strain the broth through a fine sieve into a clean pan, pressing lightly; you should have about 800 ml. Discard the solids. The chicken has simmered for 45 minutes and is fully cooked. Keep the broth hot over a low heat.

Step 7: Make the tare: warm the 5 tbsp soy sauce, 1 tbsp mirin and 1 tsp sugar in a small pan over a low heat for 1 minute until the sugar dissolves. Mirin contains a little alcohol; for an alcohol-free tare use 1 extra teaspoon of sugar and 1 tablespoon of water instead.

Step 8: Warm the 6 slices cooked chashu or roast pork slices in a ladle of broth. Bring a large pan of water to the boil for the noodles.

Step 9: Put half of the tare in each of two warm bowls and pour in 400 ml of hot broth per bowl. Stir and taste; add a splash more soy sauce if you like it saltier.

Step 10: Cook the 9 oz fresh flat ramen noodles for 1.5 to 2 minutes, or as the packet says, until just tender with a little bite. Drain well, shaking off the water.

Step 11: Slide the noodles into the broth and fold them over neatly. Top with the chashu, 1 ⅜ oz menma (seasoned bamboo shoots) (if using) and 2 spring onions, then spoon the back-fat crumbs over the surface and serve at once.

Step 12: Leftover broth keeps for 3 days: cool it quickly, refrigerate within 2 hours and reheat until boiling before use.