Pane e panelle

Step 1: Brush two baking trays (about 30 × 40 cm) with 1 tbsp olive oil.

Step 2: Put 3 ¼ cups cold water in a heavy saucepan off the heat and whisk in 9 oz chickpea flour, 1 tsp salt and ¼ tsp black pepper until completely smooth. Common mistake: tipping the flour into hot water; it seizes into lumps that never cook out.

Step 3: Set the pan over a medium heat and stir constantly with a wooden spoon for 12–15 minutes, until the batter is as thick as polenta and pulls away from the sides of the pan in one mass.

Step 4: Stir in 3 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, then quickly pour the batter onto the trays and spread it 3–4 mm thick with an oiled spatula. Work fast; it sets as it cools.

Step 5: Leave to cool for about 20 minutes, until firm and cold to the touch.

Step 6: Cut into rectangles about 6 × 8 cm and peel them off the trays.

Step 7: Heat 2 ½ cups sunflower or peanut oil in a deep frying pan to 350°F. Fry the panelle a few at a time for 2–3 minutes, turning once, until they puff, blister and turn light gold.

Step 8: Drain on kitchen paper and sprinkle with ½ tsp flaky salt.

Step 9: Split 6 soft sesame bread rolls, fill each with 4 or 5 hot panelle and squeeze over 1 lemon. Eat at once, while the panelle still crackle.