Panissa ligure

Step 1: Whisk 9 oz chickpea flour into 4 ¼ cups cold water in a heavy pan until there are no lumps, then add 1 tsp salt.

Step 2: Bring to a simmer over a medium heat, whisking constantly, then turn the heat low and switch to a wooden spoon. Cook for 25–30 minutes, stirring often, until very thick and it pulls away from the sides. Common mistake: stopping too soon; undercooked panissa tastes raw and beany and never sets firm.

Step 3: Brush a 20 × 30 cm tray with 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil and pour in the mixture. Smooth it to about 1.5 cm thick with a wet spatula.

Step 4: Cool, then chill for at least 2 hours, or overnight, until completely firm.

Step 5: Turn out the panissa and cut into sticks about 1.5 × 8 cm.

Step 6: Heat 2 cups sunflower or peanut oil in a deep pan to 350°F, or until a cube of bread browns in 30 seconds. Fry the sticks in batches for 4–5 minutes, turning, until golden and crisp.

Step 7: Drain on kitchen paper and season straight away with a pinch of salt and ½ tsp black pepper. Eat hot.

Step 8: For the cold version, skip frying: cube the panissa and toss with 1 red onion, a drizzle of olive oil, ½ lemon and pepper.