Pappardelle al ragù di cinghiale

Step 1: Put 2 ¼ lb wild boar shoulder in a bowl with 2 cups dry red wine, 6 juniper berries, 2 bay leaves and 2 sprig rosemary. Cover and marinate in the fridge for 12–24 hours.

Step 2: Lift out the meat, pat it very dry and strain the marinade, keeping the wine and the bay leaves.

Step 3: Heat 3 tbsp olive oil in a heavy casserole over a medium-high heat and brown the meat in batches until deep brown on all sides. Don't skip patting it dry: wet meat steams and never browns. Lift it out.

Step 4: Lower the heat to medium, add 2 ⅞ oz pancetta, 1 onion, 1 carrot, 1 stalk celery and 2 garlic and cook until soft and golden, 10 minutes.

Step 5: Return the meat, pour in the strained wine and boil for 5 minutes. Stir in 14 oz chopped tomatoes, 1 tbsp tomato paste, 1 ¼ cups beef stock, the bay leaves, 1 tsp salt and ½ tsp black pepper.

Step 6: Cover and simmer on the lowest heat, stirring now and then, for 2½ hours, until the meat is fork-tender and falls apart. Add a splash of water if it gets dry.

Step 7: Lift out the bay leaves and shred the meat in the pot with two forks. Simmer uncovered for 10 minutes until the ragù is thick and coats a spoon.

Step 8: Cook 1 ⅛ lb egg pappardelle in plenty of boiling water with 1 tbsp salt until al dente, 3–4 minutes if fresh. Drain, keeping a mug of the water.

Step 9: Toss the pappardelle with the ragù and a splash of pasta water until glossy, and serve with 1 ⅜ oz pecorino toscano or parmigiano, grated.