Pashmak

Step 1: Melt the 2 ⅞ oz unsalted butter or ghee with the 2 tbsp toasted sesame oil in a wide pan over a low heat, add the 7 oz plain flour and stir for 15–20 minutes until pale gold and toasty. Spread on a large tray and keep it warm in a 140°F oven.

Step 2: Dissolve the 14 oz white sugar in the ½ cup water with the 1 tsp lemon juice over a medium heat. Boil without stirring to 300°F, a light amber, about 12 minutes. Pour onto an oiled marble slab or tray.

Step 3: As the edges cool, fold them into the centre with an oiled spatula. After 3–4 minutes, when the sugar is cool enough to handle with gloves and feels like soft dough, pull and fold it a few times until opaque, adding the 1 tbsp rosewater.

Step 4: Shape the sugar into a thick ring, about 20 cm across, and lay it on the warm flour tray. Two people hold opposite sides and gently stretch the ring outwards, then twist it into a figure of eight and fold it back into a double ring. Dust with flour between each pull.

Step 5: Keep stretching, twisting, folding and dusting: the ring doubles its strands each time. After 15–20 pulls the sugar splits into very fine, hair-like threads. Stop as soon as it feels like soft wool; it sets quickly.

Step 6: Shake off excess flour and pack the pashmak loosely into airtight boxes at once. Humidity melts it, so keep it sealed and eat within 2 weeks.