Pasta ai funghi

Step 1: Bring 4 litres of water to the boil with most of 1 tbsp salt. Put ⅓ oz dried porcini to soak now if using.

Step 2: Heat 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil in a large frying pan over a high heat. Add 1 ⅛ lb mixed mushrooms in one layer and leave them alone for 3 minutes, until browned underneath, then toss and cook until golden all over and any liquid has gone, about 4 minutes more.

Step 3: Meanwhile drop 14 oz tagliatelle or spaghetti into the boiling water and cook for 1 minute less than the packet says. Scoop out a mugful of cooking water before draining.

Step 4: Lower the heat under the mushrooms to medium, push them aside and add the rest of 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil with 3 cloves garlic, ¼ tsp chilli flakes if using, and the chopped porcini with 2 tablespoons of their strained liquid. Fry for 1 minute, until the garlic smells sweet but is not brown, then stir it all together with a pinch of the remaining salt.

Step 5: Add the drained pasta and a small ladle of cooking water and toss over a medium heat for 1–2 minutes, until the sauce turns glossy and clings to the pasta.

Step 6: Stir through ½ oz flat-leaf parsley and ½ tsp black pepper, taste for salt and serve hot.