Pasta e patate

Step 1: Warm 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil in a heavy pot over a medium heat. Add 1 onion, 1 stick celery and 1 carrot and cook for 8 minutes, stirring, until soft and sweet but not browned.

Step 2: Stir in 1 tbsp tomato paste and cook for 1 minute until it darkens slightly.

Step 3: Add 1 ⅓ lb floury potatoes and stir to coat. Pour in 800 ml of 3 ½ cups hot water, add 1 tsp salt and simmer with the lid half on for 12 minutes, until the small cubes are falling apart and the large ones are just tender.

Step 4: Mash some of the potato against the side of the pot with a wooden spoon. Add 9 oz mixed short pasta and cook, stirring often like a risotto, for 10–12 minutes, adding the rest of 1 ½ cups hot water as it thickens. Common mistake: walking away; the starch catches on the bottom of the pot within a minute.

Step 5: When the pasta is al dente and the pot looks creamy and loose (it thickens as it stands), take it off the heat. Stir in 1 ⅜ oz Parmigiano Reggiano, ½ tsp black pepper and 3 ½ oz smoked provola or scamorza if using, and ¼ tsp dried chilli flakes if you like heat.

Step 6: Cover and leave for 2 minutes so the provola melts, then serve in warm bowls with a thread of olive oil.