Penang asam laksa

Step 1: Bring 2 litres water to the boil in a large pot, lower in the 1 ⅓ lb whole mackerel and simmer over a medium-low heat for 10 minutes, until the flesh is opaque and lifts easily off the bone.

Step 2: Lift out the fish and leave to cool. Keep the stock on a low simmer.

Step 3: Blend 15 dried red chillies, 3 fresh red chillies, 8 shallots, 2 stalks lemongrass, ⅔ oz galangal, ½ oz fresh turmeric and 1 tbsp shrimp paste (belacan) with a little stock to a smooth paste.

Step 4: Flake the fish off the bones and skin, checking carefully for small bones. Return the bones and heads to the stock and simmer 10 more minutes, then strain them out.

Step 5: Stir the paste, strained 2 ⅛ oz tamarind pulp, 3 dried tamarind slices (asam keping) if using, 1 bunch Vietnamese mint (daun kesum) and half the ½ torch ginger flower (bunga kantan) into the stock. Simmer for 25 minutes, uncovered, until the broth tastes deep, sour and fragrant and has reduced by about a quarter.

Step 6: Add the flaked fish, 2 tbsp sugar and 1 ½ tsp salt, mashing some of the flakes against the side of the pot to thicken the broth. Taste: it should be sharply sour, then hot, then gently sweet. Remove the kesum stalks.

Step 7: Don't simmer the herbs or fruit in the broth, where they go limp and dull. Slice the remaining ½ torch ginger flower (bunga kantan) and keep it, with 7 oz pineapple, 1 cucumber, 1 red onion, 4 leaves lettuce and 1 handful mint leaves, raw and cold for the top of each bowl.

Step 8: Warm the 1 ⅓ lb thick rice noodles (laksa noodles) in boiling water for 30 seconds, drain and divide between deep bowls.

Step 9: Ladle the hot broth with plenty of fish over the noodles. Top with the raw vegetables, herbs and sliced chillies, and add a spoon of 4 tbsp black prawn paste (hae ko) to each bowl to stir in at the table.