Polenta con le spuntature

Step 1: Heat 3 tbsp olive oil in a large heavy pan over a medium-high heat. Brown 2 ¼ lb pork spare ribs in batches for 8–10 minutes, until deep golden, then brown 4 pork sausages for 4 minutes.

Step 2: Cook 1 onion in the fat for 5 minutes, add 2 cloves garlic, then return the meat and pour in ½ cup dry white wine. Let it bubble for 2 minutes; the alcohol cooks off, or use water with vinegar instead.

Step 3: Add 2 ⅝ lb passata, 1 dried chilli, if using, and 1 tsp salt. Cover and simmer gently for 1½ hours, stirring now and then, until the meat comes away easily from the bones. The pork should reach at least 160°F, though it will be well past that. Common mistake: boiling hard; the meat toughens and the sauce sticks.

Step 4: About 50 minutes before the end, bring 7 ½ cups water and 2 tsp salt to the boil, whisk in 14 oz polenta (cornmeal) and cook over a low heat for 40–45 minutes, stirring often, until thick and smooth.

Step 5: Pour the polenta onto a large wooden board or platter and spread it about 2 cm thick. Spoon the ribs, sausages and sauce over the top, scatter with 2 ⅛ oz pecorino and serve in the middle of the table.